Masala sea bream, beetroot and tahini sauce, coffee-marinated cutlets: Yotam Ottolenghi’s summer recipes | Food
SSummer cooking, to me, means one of two things: either no cooking – who needs it, when you can eat Greek salad three times a day? – or, when you do, really go for it. It’s about transporting yourself to the seaside with a special plate of fish, evoking an atmosphere with tropical fruits, and generally putting on as much color as possible.
Coffee-Marinated Pork Chops with White Bean Mash and Kiwi Salsa (top photo)
Ask your butcher for thick chops – the bone-in type with a thick layer of fat, which crisp up very well in the pan. If you want to make ahead, marinate the chops and prepare the mash the night before.
Preparation 20 mins
Marinate 1 hour +
To cook 20 mins
Serves 4, as main
3 thick pork chops (about 350g each), with bone
1 teaspoon olive oil
For the dry marinade
2 tablespoons of freshly ground coffee
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika
1 tablespoon of fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Fine sea salt and flaked sea salt
For the white bean puree
2 cans of cannellini beans (400g each), rinsed and drained (480g)
60ml sour cream
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 limes: finely grated, to obtain 1 teaspoon of zest, and pressed, to obtain 1 teaspoon
For the kiwi salsa
4 kiwi fruit (about 320g), peeled and coarsely grated
5g of gingerpeeled and grated
15g coriandercoarsely chopped
1 red pepper (10g), stem removed, finely chopped (seeded if you prefer less heat)
First, marinate the pork. Put all the marinade ingredients in a spice grinder with a teaspoon of salt and mix finely. Take a tablespoon of this mixture, put in a small bowl with the zest and a teaspoon of flaked salt, crush with your fingers to make a spice salt. Crush the mixture with your fingertips to make the spiced salt. Rub remaining mixture evenly over chops. Marinate at room temperature for at least an hour or, if making ahead, store in the fridge for up to 24 hours. Just be sure to bring to room temperature at least 30 minutes before cooking.
Heat the oven to 200 C (180 C fan)/390 F/Gas 6. Add all the ingredients for the mash in a food processor along with two tablespoons of water and half a teaspoon of salt. Beat for 30 seconds until the mixture is almost smooth and transfer to a bowl. Cover and reserve for later.
Sprinkle three quarters of a teaspoon of fine salt over the chops. Put them fat side down in a large cold cast iron skillet with half a teaspoon of oil. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook for two to four minutes, until the fat is melted and crispy.
Add half a teaspoon of oil, flip the chops on their side and sear them on each side for 45 seconds, and repeat once more (if your pan is not big enough, put on a tray of side and grab one at a time). Arrange the chops, skin side down, and transfer the pan to the oven. Bake for nine minutes, remove from oven and let stand for five minutes. Chops should be slightly firm and spring back when pressed in the center.
For the kiwi salsa, combine all ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well.
Place the chops on a cutting board and slice along the bone to separate the meat, then cut the meat on the bias into ½ cm strips.
Spoon the bean purée onto each plate and arrange the pork slices on top. Sprinkle generously with seasoned salt and serve with the salsa on the side.
Sea bream masala with cilantro salsa and ribbon salad
It is an excellent summer dish, since most of its components can be prepared in advance. If desired, prepare the masala and marinate the fish the night before. Serve with lots of rice or rotis.
Preparation 25 minutes
To cook 40 minutes
1 ½ teaspoon chickpea flour
90ml olive oilplus ½ additional teaspoon
½ teaspoon carom seeds (ajowan)
2 whole sea bream, with the head, scaled and gutted (about 250 g each)
2 limesfinely grated zest, to obtain 1 teaspoon, then squeezed, to obtain 3 teaspoons
1 red pepperseeded and finely chopped (10g)
For the salad
1 medium carrotskin removed and discarded, peeled into ribbons (80g)
½ cucumbercut into ribbons with a peeler (80g)
¼ red onionpeeled and cut very finely (20g)
For the masala
2 tablespoons madras curry powder
15g of gingerpeeled and roughly chopped
2 cloves garlicpeeled and crushed
40g coriandertwisted upper leaves and stems and spread lower stems
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 large lime leavesstems removed and leaves finely chopped
1 plum tomatocoarsely chopped (160g)
¼ teaspoon caster sugar
Sea salt and black pepper
First, prepare the masala. Put the curry powder, ginger, garlic, coriander stems, tomato paste, lime leaves, tomato, sugar, 60ml water and a quarter teaspoon of salt into the small bowl of a blender. Beat until smooth, using a spatula to scrape down the sides if necessary.
Put a large sauté pan over medium heat and toast the chickpea flour for two to three minutes until it smells nutty and is golden brown. Pour into a bowl, wipe out the pan and return the pan to medium-high heat with two tablespoons of oil. Add the masala and cook, stirring frequently, for five minutes, until most of the liquid is gone. Stir in the carom seeds and 200ml water and cook for another 10 minutes until thickened and glossy. Stir in the chickpea flour, remove from the heat and let cool.
Heat the oven to 240°C (220°C fan)/465°F/Gas 9. Using a sharp knife, make three to four 3cm wide cuts on both sides of the fish, neck to the tail. Make sure the cuts are deep – down to the bone. Using your hands, rub a tablespoon of oil and a quarter teaspoon of salt over each fish. Then, divide the masala equally between the two fish and rub the mixture into the cuts, belly and on the skin to form a thin layer.
Place the fish on a large baking tray lined with parchment paper and bake for 20 minutes, until the masala is dry and dark in spots. Remove from the oven and let stand for five minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the salsa. Put the cilantro leaves along with the remaining three tablespoons of oil, the lime zest and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt in the bowl of a small food processor. Blend until almost smooth and put in a bowl. Stir in the chilli and two teaspoons of lime juice and set aside.
To make the salad, put the carrot, cucumber, and onion in a medium bowl with ½ teaspoon of oil, the remaining teaspoon of lime juice, and one-eighth of a teaspoon of salt. Mix well and set aside.
Carefully lift the fish onto a large serving platter and top with the salsa. Serve with the ribbon salad on the side.
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Beet and Tahini Dip with Coconut Salsa Macha
At their peak in the summer, sweet and earthy beets are incredibly versatile. We love them as a dip, whipped up with a little heat and a little acid. Salsa macha is a spicy, oily sauce from Mexico that keeps for a week in the refrigerator; double the recipe if you wish and enjoy it with fried eggs.
Preparation 15 minutes
To cook 1 hourr 40 minutes
Serves 4, as a starter or in a meze
500g of beets (about 3-4) washed and rubbed carefully
Sea salt and black pepper
50ml pomegranate molasses
1 limefinely grated to obtain ½ teaspoon of zest, and squeezed to obtain 1 tablespoon
For the salsa macha
1 ½ teaspoon grated coconutgate
1 teaspoon sesame seedsgate
1 tablespoon pumpkin seedsgate
½ teaspoon cumin seedsgate
⅛ c. ground allspicelightly toasted until fragrant
¼ teaspoon Aleppo pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder (or sweet paprika)
1 clove of garlicpeeled and crushed
75ml olive oil
For the coconut and cilantro filling
10g raw coconut flakes
First cook the beets. Put them in a large saucepan, cover with plenty of salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 90 minutes until cooked through (a knife should go through easily).
Drain in a colander and let cool enough to handle and peel. Discard the skin. Roughly chop the beetroot and place half in the large bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times to achieve a thick texture. Add them to a large mixing bowl. Puree the remaining beets for 30 seconds and add them to the bowl along with the tahini, molasses, lime juice and a quarter teaspoon of salt. Stir to combine and set aside.
Meanwhile, prepare the salsa macha. Put all the ingredients in a medium mixing bowl and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt and a good crack of black pepper. Mix well and set aside.
For the garnish, combine the lime zest, coconut shavings and cilantro in a small bowl and set aside.
Ladle the mashed red beets onto a large rimmed dish, using the spoon to create swirls and dips. Spread the salsa on top and serve with the coconut shavings mixture sprinkled on top.